Wednesday, 17 February 2010

New York Fashion Week: DKNY's Love story

Slouchy, oversized jackets and flirty pleat minis were key standouts pieces in Donna Karan’s sixties student inspired collection for DKNY. A young Ali McGraw was brought to mind with patchwork mini-dresses, cropped trenches and striped long-sleeved wool jersey tees finished with elongated scarves and woolen tights.  60’s penny loafers were given a harder edge though with a vertiginous 70’s platform finish. In a daywear palette of neutrals  brown, tan, burgundy, and bronze, a gray hooded toggle coat was the standout outerwear piece in a story that looks set to cement the Love Story mood for a perfectly preppy autumn.

photos:Marco Madeira/

Jacobs goes marching on

The new Marc Marc Jacobs  saw the military trend galloping from strength to strength in  a collection that could have been sourced from an east Berlin thrift shop – all eastern army surplus in a distillation of the vintage spirit that has driven the range since its inception. Khaki melton oversized coating,  red square fur hats  and little drummer boy jacketing  sat with menswear-inspired tailoring for daywear which translated to pretty drop-waist lace and structured metallic brocade dresses for night. Relaxed styling and a spirit of thrift bonhomie imbues this collection with a likeability and accessibility which seems to grow by the season. 

Monday, 15 February 2010

New York Fashion Week: Wang cuts and sews

Alexander Wang chose Wall Street as the starting point for autumn, superficially taking the traditional banker's suit and deconstructing its classic menswear components to re-configure in torso exposing crops which fed into a  90’s referenced collection. A successful progression for a designer more widely recognized for his skills in easy jersey layering, though a silhouette that  would be a challenge for any other than the most midriff-confident to carry off. Tailoring segued into elegant eveningwear which flagged lace and velvet as key autumn fabrics which echoed  Lanvin in its elegant drapery and a more mature cocktail luxe for the older Wang customer. 

Accessories are already 30% of Wang's turnover and the boxy calfskin bags, metal-detailed clutches and oversized ankle boots on show look set to keep sales on the increase.
photos:Marco Madeira/